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Hi, Thanks for the question. So to clarify, you want an STC rating of 60dB at the 40Hz frequency? What is the context of the situation, is it a brand new wall where you can do whatever you like, or is this to improve an existing wall? In which case, what is the construction of the existing wall? Is this for a music studio or something similar?

Hi @Ninefingers1986, they are easy to cut and you can simply use a pair of tin snips.

Hi @TheAntitrollpatrol, adding Acoustic Mineral Wool will certainly help absorb some of the sound from bouncing around inside the chimney. However, it won't soundproof it. Please see the below blog which highlights the ReductoClip System or SoundBoard 4 as options for soundproofing the chimney: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-chimney Which system you use can depend on the level and type of noise being heard through the chimney. Please feel free to call and we will happily advise on the best solution (01423) 206208.

Hi @tedebayer1, thank you for taking the time to share your experience of using Green Glue. This video on FexiSound (an alternative to Green Glue) might be of interest: ua-cam.com/video/fffHFAVgdGI/v-deo.html Similarly to Green Glue, FlexiSound is also viscoelastic. and when placed between two sheets of acoustic plasterboard gives the wall the ability to dampen sound energy and vibration. However, unlike the acoustic glue the FlexiSound also creates a barrier of mass. This is important as it's mass that predominantly blocks airborne sound. FlexiSound adds an extra 10kg per m2 and is only 5mm thick. Compare this to the Green Glue which is adding absolutely no mass whatsoever. Also, because the acoustic glue doesn't uniformly cover the entire wall, it doesn't create any kind of air tight sealed barrier to help block sound.

Hi @tombowen9686, absolutely, soundproofing works both ways. e.g. If you are soundproofing your home to stop the unwanted noise from noisy neighbours, then it will also work at blocking any noise from your house from passing into your neighbours property.

Hi @muntee33, decoupling is certainly the most effective solution, along with adding layers of high mass to block airborne noise. The double stud you describe often isn't a practical solution because of the space loss and in most cases there is often an existing stud wall already there. This video showing the effective soundproofing of an internal stud wall separating bedrooms in a hotel might also be of interest: ua-cam.com/video/ZHwa3dYBQsI/v-deo.html

Hi @SpedSpedding, great to read your comment! Much appreciated.

Hi @Manchesterlad85, for units, TV's etc the recommendation is to use extra ReductoClips and furring bars. Please take a look at: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-install-a-tv-or-radiator-onto-the-reductoclip-systems With regards to hearing your neighbours, this is slightly more complicated. It could be that you need to treat the cavities and soundproof the floor or ceiling. Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can discuss this with you. These videos might be of interest: ua-cam.com/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/VeeTMJfTfEc/v-deo.html

@@SoundproofingStore thanks for the reply, to clarify I'm in a house, it's to the side that reverberates under the floor as well as walls. Cavity is about 4ft downstairs, Edwardian house. Upstairs I can hear them walking on their floor from next door. It echos & comes up through my floor in the bedrooms. Downstairs I can hear them walking on their dining room/living floor from the walls and floor. I get creaking which comes from the corners of the flooring. I think it's the joist which carry it through, so the wall would definitely work for side on but I'd still hear their steps etc.

@@Manchesterlad85 soundproofing the wall will certainly help, as what you are hearing when they walk is the airborne noise created from their footsteps. This will be especially bad if they have a hard floor finish. Adding acoustic mineral wool to the joists will also help and then it might be that you also need to treat the floor. We would definitely recommend you speak to us if this is something you wish to address.

Hi @hks-lion, underfloor heating needs to be installed above the Reverso SoundMat.

@@SoundproofingStore thank you for your quick response and reply

@@hks-lion pleasure. If we can be of any further help, please don't hesitate to call (01423) 206208.

Hi @user-dz4ty5tj7q, if you are hearing music coming through a solid brick wall then you'd ideally need to look at the ReductoClp System which fully decouples the layers of soundproofing from the offending wall. Please see below: ua-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/lI2bdQZWyOE/v-deo.html Should you have any questions, please feel free to give us a call (01423) 206208.

@@SoundproofingStore thankfully it's just talking. Thank you for the reply. Slightly concerning that the conversations they have downstairs are just as clear in our bedroom upstairs 🤔

Hi Liam_Doherty_UK, great to hear that you found it useful. We will look forward to speaking with you. Hope all goes well with the move!

Hi, Thanks for your question. This is a difficult one to answer in a short comment, but basically it's unlikely that the noise is getting in via the block external wall. This should have plenty of mass and thickness already. The weakest point of the wall is the window, so I would initially look at adding secondary acoustic glazing rather than adding more to your walls. If for some reason the noise is getting in through the wall, adding SoundBoard 4 over the dot and dab can actually make it worse! You need to remove the dot and dab and fix the SoundBoard 4 directly to the surface of the wall.

@@SoundproofingStore Huge thanks for your quick reply. Apologies however as what I failed to mention is that the noise is coming from the flat ABOVE and not from outside. Primarily conversation and TV can be clearly heard if stood close to the wall and with absolute clarity if an ear is pressed to the wall. Hence I wondered if adding this system to the walls would go someway to deadening the sound to a degree. I'm aware that total isolation from the noise would be a difficult task but if anything can lower the clarity of the noise (which I assume is flanking noise) then that's the kind of result I'm after. Many thanks once again for taking the time to answer my initial question.

@@ds-ve2qo No worries, happy to help. The dot and dab plasterboard will certainly be playing a part in this problem as you have a cavity behind the board for sound to freely travel up and down. So again, I would definitely remove that. SoundBoard 4 may help to a degree by adding more mass but without creatign a cavity. The better option is our ReductoClip direct to wall system - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-direct-to-wall-system

Hi, Thanks for your question. This is a case by case thing really depending on the construction of the building. Generally we find that the majority of noise comes straight through the wall. By the time the sound has passed through the layers of the neighbours floor or ceiling, then through the wall, then through the layers of your floor or ceiling, it is already greatly reduced. So just doing the wall is often enough. We're not aiming for 100% silence, we're aiming for a big reduction to make things more comfortable. However, you need to spend time listening to the other surfaces when the nighbour makes noise and if you can tell that there is a lot of noise flanking via your floor or ceiling, then these may need to be treated as well. Opening up the space and installing acoustic mineral wool in the cavity will help. If it's still not enough then the floor or ceiling may need to be fully soundproofed too.

@@SoundproofingStore Thank you!

Thanks for the comment. Fixing things to the soundproofing systems isn't necessarily an issue. Nails or screws going into the system is fine. The problem is cutting holes out of the system, removing the mass. So recessed sockets, spotlights etc where you cut a hole out of the soundproofing and fill with a fixture is going to have a negative effect on the sound reduction. The best advice is to use surface mounted fixtures instead, so sockets and lights that are fixed onto the surface not inside of the surface.

Thanks for the question. All three are effective for vocal frequencies to varying degrees. The ReductoClip Independent Wall system is the highest performing system overall for all frequencies. But to give you the best advice for a specific project it's best to get in touch with us. We can then find out more about the construction of the room and give you the most accurate advice for your situation.

Hi @Victoria_2005, we have separate installation videos for SoundBoard 4. Please see below and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to get in touch (01423) 206208. irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/SoundBoard%204%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf ua-cam.com/video/5kRXjTEojck/v-deo.html The below video shows installation on a stud wall. However, the theory is the same for a solid wall (but without having to add acoustic mineral wool or locate the studs to drill into): ua-cam.com/video/ZHwa3dYBQsI/v-deo.html

Hi @kathrynparker983, we wouldn't recommend simply using Tecsound (or its alternative - FlexiSound) as these materials are used as part of a soundproofing solution and shouldn't be used on their own. More information on why can can be found below: ua-cam.com/video/lkz-EVPU8DI/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/fffHFAVgdGI/v-deo.html Is the dividing wall a solid or stud wall? Please feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can speak to you in more detail and advise accordingly.

Thank you for the kind comment! Glad you enjoyed the video.

Hi, thank you for your question. We don't ship outside of mainland UK i'm afraid. If you want to arrange your own couriers to collect from us and ship to you, that can be accommodated.

Hi, thanks for the question. We use a solvent free, floor impact adhesive that is suitable for rubber and wood based materials. We can supply an approppriate adhesive with the matts. soundproofingstore.uk/product/isobond-rubber-adhesive-12kg-30m2-coverage/

@@SoundproofingStore Thank you for your reply, sounds good, water based glue will not react with the plasticiser in the rubber, I am happy with that.

Hi Thanks for your comment. With that space you won't be able to do completely de-coupled ceiling joists, but for concrete we would usually fix 50mm timber battens to the concrete (using concrete fixings), add your mineral wool between the battens, then fix the clips to the battens with timber screws. There is an installation guide for concrete ceilings whic you can find here - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-ceiling-system-concrete-with-timber-batten

These are our products that we only sell in the UK. Their may be companies based in New Zealand that sell something similar but we are not aware of who those companies are i'm afraid.

It is similar to MLV in regard to thickness, density, mass per square metre. The difference is that FlexiSound is far more visco elastic so has a better damping quality and is easier to install due to the self adhesive nature.

I'm afraid we have no plans at the moment to expand into Europe, we're just UK based at the moment.

Staggered studs are a decent idea for soundproofing a stud wall, but this video is about solid masonry walls, in which case, staggered studs won't offer any benefit. The other issue with staggered studs is that they're not really de-coupled because the header and footer is connected to both sides. So it's reduced connection, not complete disconnection. But they certainly offer an imporvement over standard stud frames. I certainly wouldnt' say it's more effective than any other approach, there are many more effective solutions, they just take up more space and more cost.

Great question. Our ReductoClip System is always going to perform much higher because of the de-coupling and vibration damping of the system. So if you have the space to use the ReductoClip system then that will always be better. However, some situations don't necessarily need the absolute best performance or don't have the space. In this case with it being lightweight stud walls, we know the SoundBoard 4 will make a huge difference while keeping things more simple and less space loss. However on a solid brick / block wall the SoundBoard 4 won't offer as much of an improvement so the ReductoClip system would be our recommendation. Hope that helps!

@@SoundproofingStore interesting! yes thanks that helps. It's is for solid walls.

@@SoundproofingStore What are your thoughts on lining a loft floor with this? The ceiling is braced with extra beams to take the weight. Plus no one will be walking in the loft. I'm just trying to be cunning with soundproofing above a ceiling more than below one to lessen sound transfer to our neighbours.

@@KASmonkeys I would offer a good improvement in regard to airborne sound, however I wouldn't recommend it for practicality reasons. The boards aren't structural and although you know that, if you moved house in the future the new owner might think they are floor boards and may walk on them or store heavy things on them and they would collapse. You would be better off using one of our high mass floor board options - www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/soundscreed-25-direct-to-joist

Hi @anonymousm1718, there is a lot to cover off here, so please do feel free to call us and we can discuss this in more detail with you (01423) 206208. A brick wall is solid and adds more mass to help block airborne noise, so taking it down will only reduce this capability. Also, the fact that concrete naturally has more mass than e.g. timber, means it usually does a better job of naturally blocking airborne noise. Because this isn't the case, you ideally need to find out why (again we can help advise on this). This blog might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-soundproof-a-concrete-floor For the concrete floor take a look at the SoundMat 2 Plus Floor soundproofing solution: ua-cam.com/video/S9ZhiDRTPds/v-deo.html For walls and ceilings the ReductoClip System: ua-cam.com/video/huNDsYKLpqo/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/v-deo.html

@@SoundproofingStore Thank you for the information and once the project is set, I shall be reaching out for further advice and supplies.👍

Hi @andym7333, it depends how thick the tiles are. For some types of tiles a thicker stabilising board might be needed. The installation guide for the Reverso SoundMat can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reverso-soundmat or please feel free to call us (01423) 206208.

Hi @ReeseBayley, as you mention, decoupling the soundproofing from the wall using the ReductoClip Independent Solution would give you the highest performance against impact noise. (The ReductoClip System is the slimmest system on the market). However, where the 120mm space loss isn't feasible, then the next best option would be the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System (60mm). This is a hugely popular solution because of its performance v's space loss. Please feel fee to call us on (01423) 206208 and we can always discuss this with you in more detail.

Hi @stillbreathing9146, absolutely we can. However, it will be soundproofing rather than the acoustic panels shown on this video that you will need. The difference between soundproofing and sound absorption is explained in more detail on this video: ua-cam.com/video/6Hk4ss3PeSE/v-deo.html Please do feel free to call us on (01423) 206208 and Phil, or a member of the team will happily discuss possible soundproofing solutions in more detail with you.

Hi @andrew2272kag, you could soundproof the wall and see how much impact vibration that absorbs with a view to also then doing the floor if needed. It is always easier to treat impact vibrations at the source of the impact noise before it gets chance to enter the structure of the building. Could you speak to your neighbours about soft close doors, or similar? This would certainly be the easiest way for you to combat the impact vibrations you are experiencing. This blog on slamming doors is the same principle as the cabinets slamming and might be of interest: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/how-to-stop-a-door-from-slamming If you want to discuss the most effective soundproofing option, then please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 and we can speak to you in more detail and advise accordingly. The ReductoClip Independent Wall Solution is the highest performing solution for walls: ua-cam.com/video/R2gvGyE6kTE/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/v-deo.html

Hi @andrew2272kag, please see the reply to your other comment on this video: ua-cam.com/video/mN6sOSN-KVA/v-deo.html

@jmom687 Absolutely. We have helped many parents with autistic children to create a more peaceful space at home. We can't really price that kind of project per m2. It's always best to calculate what you need specifically for your space. The best thinig to do is go to our website at www.soundproofingstore.co.uk and fill in a contact form with the dimensions of your room and any photos. We can then work out what you need and a price. We don't ship to Ireland ourselves but you can arrange a courier or freight forward company to ship the order over to you.

@matzacomn If only it was that simple. Generally the majority of houses here in the UK are built with brick or concrete party walls, but we still have noise issues. Brick is certainly much better than timber which I know a lot of houses in the US are constructed from. Brick has more mass which is a good start, but most older properties (pre 1960s) were built with a single layer of brick, so still not enough mass and no de-coupling so still lots of vibration getting through. Things are much better now with new houses being built using double skin cavity walls with high density concrete block. These do a very good job.

Hi @mariana7556, this video is for a solid brick wall. For a timber stud wall, then yes, absolutely - the existing plasterboard, or drywall needs to be removed first to expose the stud frame. Acoustic mineral wool is added between the studs and The ReductoClips are then fixed to the stud frame. The rest of the installation and build up is as per the above video.

Hi @GregoryGuay, not entirely sure what you mean here? Is it the wall you are soundproofing, or a ceiling (where is the window?) It might also be worth looking at the ReductoClip System (for walls and ceilings) which replaced the IsoMax system: ua-cam.com/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/v-deo.html

Hi @deisel321, our recommendation would be to use the ReductoClip Ceiling Solution on a ceiling: ua-cam.com/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/v-deo.html You can use SoundBoard 4 on a timber joist ceiling for airborne noise, but it won't be as effective as the ReductoClip Solution against impact nose. More details can be found here: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/ceilings

Hi @jamesliu4260, the stud frame is secured with fixings into the returning walls, ceiling and floor. Just not touching the offending wall (the one you are soundproofing). This installation video goes into more detail and might be useful: ua-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/v-deo.html

Hi @sami9586, would you be able to gain access to the floor above to treat the noise at the source? You could then use a flooring solution like the SoundMat 3 Plus: ua-cam.com/video/S9ZhiDRTPds/v-deo.html Otherwise, the ReductoClip Ceiling Solution would be our recommendation (as per the above video): Remove existing ceiling to expose timber joists / Acoustic Mineral Wool / ReductoClips and ReductoClip Furring Channels, Acoustic Plasterboard (first layer) / FlexiSound 5 / Second layer of acoustic plasterboard: www.soundproofingstore.co.uk/reductoclip-system-for-ceilings

@@SoundproofingStore Thank you very much for you advice. I have cork rolls 5mm and 8mm. Can cork be a suitable replacement for "FlexiSound 5"? Thanks

Hi @@sami9586 unfortunately not, as cork won't add anywhere near the same amount of mass as FlexiSound.

@@SoundproofingStore Thank you very much for your kind advice

@@sami9586 it's a pleasure. If we can be of any further help, please feel free to contact us on (01423) 206208 or at sales@soundproofingstore.co.uk

Hi @andreawilliams8471 Yes this system will help with impact noise but how much depends on the frequency of the sound. Banging door sounds tend to be low pitch, therefore you will get a much better reduction from our Independent ReductoClip System - ua-cam.com/video/fQcfjqQvtOQ/v-deo.html

Hi @ghesoonkarim602, please see below the installation guide for the ReductoClip Direct to Wall System: irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Direct%20To%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf There is a positioning diagram for the clips and furring channels (showing the spacings) which can be found on page 5. You mention studs, is this on an existing stud wall, or are you building an independent stud frame in front of an existing wall? If needed - please also find the Installation guide for the ReductoClip Independent Wall System: irp.cdn-website.com/e9ca99bc/files/uploaded/ReductoClip%20Independent%20Wall%20Brochure.pdf

@@SoundproofingStore thank you 😊

Hi @bentereekers9808, the below videos on soundproofing a wall, ceiling and floor (rather than this one on sound absorption) might be of use. Walls: ua-cam.com/video/huNDsYKLpqo/v-deo.html Ceiling: ua-cam.com/video/4aPYW2HbF2E/v-deo.html Floors: ua-cam.com/video/VeeTMJfTfEc/v-deo.html When you next hear the noise, put your ear to the wall and listen to how much noise you can hear through the wall. This will help you narrow down as to where the noise is coming from.

@@SoundproofingStore Thank you so much for answering 🙏 Greetings from the Netherlands 👋